When we trenched in the pipe, we went down 12 feet and then another 4 or 5 feet right where the culvert sits and put the pipe straight in, so that the water drops the 4 feet and acts like a settling pool. Then if it fills up with sediment, you can bring in a vacuum truck and suck it out.
We also used a 4 solid tile for the intake, rather than 2" line, for not only cost savings, but to avoid any real possibility of it plugging. 100' of 4" was $60 and 100' of 2" would have been closer to $200 or more. Also less chance of it kinking.
I like allfarmers idea of putting a stake in the bottom and tying the pipe to it. I'll be stringing a 1/2" rope across the width of the pond and attaching a drop rope on the center with a weight to hold the pipe at whatever height I choose. I went with that idea in case a beaver decides to get into the pond in the summer and plug the intake pipe. Then I can pull the rope and clean out the pipe from the bank.
We also used a 4 solid tile for the intake, rather than 2" line, for not only cost savings, but to avoid any real possibility of it plugging. 100' of 4" was $60 and 100' of 2" would have been closer to $200 or more. Also less chance of it kinking.
I like allfarmers idea of putting a stake in the bottom and tying the pipe to it. I'll be stringing a 1/2" rope across the width of the pond and attaching a drop rope on the center with a weight to hold the pipe at whatever height I choose. I went with that idea in case a beaver decides to get into the pond in the summer and plug the intake pipe. Then I can pull the rope and clean out the pipe from the bank.
Comment