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Frostfree Nosepumps

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    #16
    good timing. We are just digging a dugout right now. With oilfield breakup coming, there are some
    track hoes looking for stuff to do, and I am pretty sure it will be mostly full this spring when (if)
    all this snow melts.
    We are putting in 2 wet wells and may water up to 400 head out of the dugout. 200' long, 18' deep and
    50 to 60' wide.
    We have not 100% decided on the pump setup but are leaning towards solar/wind hybrid with an electric
    eye. We are currently debating how much will be "package" vs home built. We looked at the frostfree
    pumps and I agree they are very good, and would have some applications for us in other locations but we
    would need several which jacks the price quite high. Also the need to knock the ice off in very cold
    weather was a deterrent as the location is not readily accessible via truck or tractor all the time. I
    am not that keen about getting on a saddle horse in 40 below so i can knock the ice off a pump.
    We are going to set up the solar pump so we can yank it out of the well in the summer and use it at
    other locations as well.

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      #17
      I was talking about the nose pump as a winter water
      source - we don't use them in summer as the cattle
      would only be in that enclosure with the pump for a
      couple of days in the year. Recommendation is up to
      100 head per pump so 100 cows in winter or 50 pairs
      in summer. In practise I'd be comfortable with at least
      120 cows in winter as they have plenty time on their
      hands that time of year.

      Sean, if your water source is at a distance I think I'd
      trust a nosepump more than a solar/wind/bowl deal.
      I'd be wanting to see them daily for sure. You are the
      kind of guy who could build your own nosepump
      pretty easy I'm sure.

      Comment


        #18
        SMC how are you getting the water from the
        dugout to you wet wells?

        Our dugout is 20' deep and when we dug it (7 yrs
        ago) we ran 2 - 2" plastic lines thru the side of the
        dug out to the culvert. Our wet well is also about
        20' deep. The problem we have had is 2 or 3
        times now the water stops running into the wet
        well. I think the one line never did work (kinked I
        guess) the second line some how got dirt in it and
        we had to clean it out with a pressure line. It has
        worked well the last couple years now. The
        exception being when a beaver moved into our
        yard and decided to plug the lines in the dugout.
        We also ran another line 8' deep and ran that to a
        jet pump in the pump house. So 2 systems both
        plumbed together. Submersible can prime the jet
        pump if the power is out for a while and the cows
        drain the system. Also low pressure switches
        ensure the pumps don't run dry. With two system
        you will need check valves or in our case the jet
        pump will push water backwards thru the
        submersible.

        Comment


          #19
          Got 2 culverts on kijiji and plan to run
          2" hose to them. The second well will be
          a backup at first and then a way that I
          can fence to add/change access points and
          graze more groups. I will leave enough
          hose in the end of the dugout with a line
          attached that if I needed to service the
          well I can pull the end of the line out of
          the dugout and pump the wells out.

          Comment


            #20
            Sounds like a good plan SMC I took an old
            grader blade and put it in the chop saw and put a
            point on it like a survey stake. Pounded it into the
            bottom of the dugout and wired the hoses to that
            so that they stay a foot or so off the bottom. My
            idea was in winter your not going to adjust the
            height in winter if the water level gets low.

            Comment


              #21
              When we trenched in the pipe, we went down 12 feet and then another 4 or 5 feet right where the culvert sits and put the pipe straight in, so that the water drops the 4 feet and acts like a settling pool. Then if it fills up with sediment, you can bring in a vacuum truck and suck it out.

              We also used a 4 solid tile for the intake, rather than 2" line, for not only cost savings, but to avoid any real possibility of it plugging. 100' of 4" was $60 and 100' of 2" would have been closer to $200 or more. Also less chance of it kinking.

              I like allfarmers idea of putting a stake in the bottom and tying the pipe to it. I'll be stringing a 1/2" rope across the width of the pond and attaching a drop rope on the center with a weight to hold the pipe at whatever height I choose. I went with that idea in case a beaver decides to get into the pond in the summer and plug the intake pipe. Then I can pull the rope and clean out the pipe from the bank.

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