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    Blinks for Coffee Break

    QUOTED EXCERPTS:
    Anon Lololi quickly rattles off how he likes to
    cook callaloo, a leafy green vegetable common
    in his native Guyana, but not so common in
    kitchens and grocery stores around his Toronto-
    area home.

    "We love it in rice," he says. Add coconut milk,
    and it’s a real "delicacy." Plus, it is chock full of
    nutrients, offering "more iron than spinach" and
    lots of Vitamin E.

    But as good as callaloo may be, it’s far from
    being a household staple in Canadian kitchens. 

    Lololi would like callaloo to become more
    common, though. And by growing and selling it,
    along with produce such as okra at farmers 
    markets in Toronto, he’s tapping into an
    underserved demand for ethnic vegetables that
    University of Guelph researchers say could be
    worth more than $60 million per month in the
    Greater Toronto Area alone.

    "We want to introduce these new crops to
    Toronto," says Lololi, executive director of the
    Afri-Can FoodBasket, a community group whose
    activities include growing vegetables at the
    McVean startup farm site in nearby Brampton.

    P.E.I. farmers experiment with Asian vegetables
    Pakistani-Canadian farmer fills crop void in
    Canada 
    And he seems to be looking at a market primed
    for their arrival.

    Earlier this year, Statistics Canada reported that
    of the country’s largest urban centres, the
    Toronto area had "by far" the largest share of
    foreign-born residents, a group representing 46
    per cent of the population. 

    More than eating turnips
    In Markham alone, a city on Toronto's northern
    border with a large Chinese population, 72.3 per
    cent of the population was a visible minority,
    Statistics Canada said.

    To the northwest, in Brampton, that proportion
    was 66.4 per cent — fuelled in large part by a
    burgeoning South Asian population. In
    Mississauga, to the west, visible minorities
    accounted for 53.7 per cent of the population. In
    Toronto itself, the proportion is 49.1.

    That immigration influx has prompted those who
    think about how food is produced in Canada to
    ask some serious questions.

    "When you look at the demographic trends, you
    go, ‘Oh boy, by 2017, Toronto will be more than
    50 per cent visible minority' — so the visible
    majority at that point — and what are we in
    agriculture doing about that?" asks Jim Brandle,
    chief executive officer of the Vineland Research
    and Innovation Centre in Ontario’s Niagara
    Region.

    "People come with their own cultural and dietary
    traditions, and quite frankly I think the idea is to
    give people what they want rather than to teach
    them to eat turnips, which has sort of been our
    strategy so far."

    But producing those more exotic crops isn’t as
    simple as getting some seeds, planting them and
    expecting to reap lush harvests a few months
    later.

    "What we discovered is that some things are not
    well understood," says Glen Filson, a professor
    at the University of Guelph. His research, in
    conjunction with others, found the potential
    demand for fresh, locally grown ethnic vegetables
    could be worth $61 million a month in the greater
    Toronto area alone.


    Anon Lololi crouches down for a closer look at
    callaloo - also called amaranth - growing at the
    McVean startup farm in Brampton, northwest of
    Toronto. (Janet Davison/CBC)

    "We know now that you can grow okra and it’s
    been grown in large quantities in southern
    Ontario …just north of Lake Erie. And bitter
    melon can also be grown here."

    But for other vegetables, "the growing season is
    just not long enough or we don’t have enough
    heat units because a lot of these are tropical
    vegetables," he says. 

    According to Filson’s study, people in the
    Chinese community are looking for bok choi,
    Chinese broccoli and eggplant. 

    In the South Asian community, consumers want
    okra, eggplant and bitter melon. Those in the
    African-Caribbean community also would look for
    okra, along with African eggplant, garden eggs
    and callaloo, also known as smooth amaranth.

    At the Vineland centre, researchers have decided
    to narrow their focus to three ethnic vegetables:
    round Indian eggplant, long Asian eggplant and
    okra.

    Those crops are the ones considered to "fit well
    into our production system and ones the growers
    could grow profitably," says Brandle.

    But there are other challenges, including what
    Filson calls a "cultural barrier" between the
    farmers who live in the prime production areas in
    southwestern Ontario and the immigrant
    consumer population in the GTA.

    "A lot of those farmers just aren’t aware of the
    extent of the demand in the GTA," Filson says.

    Another hurdle is the fact that, in Canada, there
    are no certified pesticides or fungicides for most
    of these new crops.

    Some degree of risk
    That absence would concern commercial
    producers who would worry these kinds of crops
    might develop a pest they would not be able to
    control.

    "So there’s a certain amount of risk attached to
    the growth of some of these vegetables," Filson
    says.

    That’s not to say some ethnic vegetables haven’t
    been successfully produced in Canada. Gauging
    total current production is difficult as Statistics
    Canada doesn’t have readily available numbers.
    But bok choi and related crops have been doing
    well in the lush Holland Marsh area north of
    Toronto for about 40 years.


    Mary Ruth McDonald says there is considerable
    market potential for amaranth. (Courtesy Mary
    Ruth McDonald)

    "They’ve gone from something being specialized
    to Chinese restaurants … to being widely
    consumed by many different groups," says Mary
    Ruth McDonald, a University of Guelph professor
    who works out of the Muck Crops Research
    Station at the Holland Marsh.

    McDonald is now focusing some of her attention
    on amaranth — or callaloo.

    "We know it can grow really well here," she says,
    as it is related to some of the common weeds like
    pigweed that can thrive and be quite a bother in
    Ontario fields. I see it as having a large market
    potential."

    Canada’s largest food retailer has also spotted
    the market potential ethnic vegetables as a whole
    can hold.

    Looking for freshness and value
    While Loblaw Companies Limited would not
    disclose sales information, a company
    representative said it sees "significant" demand
    for ethnic produce in the GTA, as well as in the
    Vancouver and Montreal areas, as a result of
    immigration and "the changing palate of the
    general population." Strong growth is also
    emerging in Calgary, Edmonton, Regina and
    Moncton.

    "Consumers are looking for produce that [is]
    familiar to them from their native countries and
    expect quality, freshness and value," Shreenivas
    Shellikeri, Loblaw’s senior category manager for
    ethnic produce, said in an email.

    'The opportunity starts with new Canadians, but
    the real opportunity is to feed it to everybody.'— 
    Ian Brandle
    Loblaw started carrying okra about 15 years ago
    after noticing the rising demand for South Asian
    items, along with the number of South Asian
    grocery stores across the GTA.

    "Today it’s one of the key ethnic produce items in
    many [Loblaw] stores," Shellikeri said.

    But if consumers are looking for locally produced
    ethnic produce, it is hard to come by. At Loblaw,
    for example, on a yearly basis, 85 to 90 per cent
    of its ethnic produce is imported.

    However, said Shellikeri, as part of the
    company’s "source with integrity" principle, it
    "prides itself on sourcing its produce locally when
    possible" and is getting some of the "key ethnic
    commodities" from family farms in British
    Columbia, Alberta, Ontario, Quebec and Nova
    Scotia.

    UNQUOTE
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