CI 722/MF 200 loosey goosey steering issues

[hobbyfrmr]

Sorry not marketing related but I am finding information on these machines somewhat scarce.
Anyone remember these swathers? This one is really getting out of whack!
It is like driving on a ball. I have to turn the steering wheel 120 degrees to get a reaction and the reaction is fairly severe.
I tightened one nut to give some resistance to the steering wheel. Linkages have some general wear, nothing obvious, and never been adjusted since original. Going straight is kind of ok, it will drift a couple of feet but turning on the headlands is like bronc riding! Stay in the seat, anticipate which direction you will go and how fast!
Insight is appreciated.

[4GFarms]

Hey Hobby, we had a 220 that just started jumping like it didnt know which way to go. It seemed like the engine/machine was going to blow up it was that rough. We changed the eye loop bolts that are attached to the steering under the cab and it was like a whole new machine. It sounds like your steering system/assembly is probably worn out even if it doesnt look that bad. Hope that gives you a place to start. Best of luck.

[hobbyfrmr]

Hey Hobby, we had a 220 that just started jumping like it didnt know which way to go. It seemed like the engine/machine was going to blow up it was that rough. We changed the eye loop bolts that are attached to the steering under the cab and it was like a whole new machine. It sounds like your steering system/assembly is probably worn out even if it doesnt look that bad. Hope that gives you a place to start. Best of luck.

Thank you 4G. Just because the parts are there, doesn't mean they are not worn! In this situation, a little bit of wear on all the parts can create a big problem. I often say things like, " It worked well the first 29 years, now it's a piece of junk!

[farmaholic]

I was thinking its a hydraulic problem but if all the play in the linkages is added up maybe its too much for a hydraulic steering valve that might have small tolerances for movement to make turn one way or the other.

In this case it might be the sum of all the play in the linkages is greater than what the valve block can handle.

Let us know what fixes it.

http://www.agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/Viewer/book.aspx?book=agco/00718637

[4GFarms]

Yeah check that steering linkage. If its wore and the swather steering valves want to both kick in it makes fpr a rough ride. I think ours were only worr like 3/8 of an inch. If you take it apart just watch when puttinh it back together and make sure you have your steering set at nuetral.

[macdon02]

If you haven't by passed the steering centered switch yet get the wheel into neutral with the machine off. Then disconnect the rods. Both arms on the hydro have to be in neutral so you need to sync them after changing the 4 eyelets out. It's a 2 man job and the one under the machine should be the fastest. You'll figure it out. Could also be the bushings in the arms off the hydro. I'd probably just do both the bushings and the eyelets as its kind of easier when everything is disconnect

[hobbyfrmr]

This may take longer than expected. I think there is more to it. I will by the eyelets for sure.

[hobbyfrmr]

The rhs steering control arm which is hooked up by those eyelets and then directly to the hydrostatic motor was loose. It is a keyed shaft but there was some side to side play. I tightened the retaining bolt and there is substantial improvement..
Thank you for the help.

[macdon02]

I got 3800 hours on my old girl. Have to be gentle with her but they'll run a long time

[hobbyfrmr]

I got 3800 hours on my old girl. Have to be gentle with her but they'll run a long time

This one only has 2800 hours! They are effective with some repair/rebuild. So far it has not been expensive. The engine is excellent. I dont remember the exact moment I took on the habit of rescuing old machinery and trying to wear it out even more. There is some general angst when describing a part from anything 25-40 years old. It has been stated on AV and I agree that either we make payments or pay for repairs. So far repairs have not broke me yet, I dont like being down for a couple of days but if your farming it happens. Luckily this one was an hour of internet forum searching and then some part search. Full Line AG has those eyelets on hand.

[macdon02]

I cut 2500 of canola every year in mine. Straight cut the cereals. Keep the reel tight, don't run it faster then necessary and don't be doing power turns and it has held together pretty good. I have a honeybee knife and drive on mine so only place in Sask I've been able to find heads is Purdue. I bypassed the triple delivery on it as that was causing more grief then necessary. Driving iron that's paid for ain't a bad way to make a living. Bust a knuckle once in a while but the payments go to me.

[farmaholic]

Hobby, if you haven't already, you need to acquaint yourself with all the different brand's "online parts websites". Best thing ever when ordering parts. Every model has their own parts breakdown and part number....same as the dealership. Sometimes it can be hard to find in the categories but persistence will get results

I wouldn't want to work behind a parts counter...

[hobbyfrmr]

[QUOTE=farmaholic;355113]Hobby, if you haven't already, you need to acquaint yourself with all the different brand's "online parts websites". Best thing ever when ordering parts. Every model has their own parts breakdown and part number....same as the dealership. Sometimes it can be hard to find in the categories but persistence will get results

I wouldn't want to work behind a parts counter...[/QUOTE

I have that honeybee (SHS? SCS?) broke a knife drive head about 5 years ago. I think only John Deere had one, I took a long time to get it, so I brought the old one to our local welder. He welded that one, I went swathing. The new one came into Deere so I bought that as a new spare. The old welded knife drive is still on the machine to date.
I am familiar with the online parts books for sure. They are extremely helpful when removing something. I try to have the required part number / image with me before I phone a parts person.