Bourgault mid row discs or shanks

[STRNGR]

We have been using MRB discs since moved to Bourgault paralinks. Seeding on 10” spacing with 3/4” tip and using NH3 as N source. Looking at changing to MRshanks and any feedback appreciated

[farmaholic]

Even though they're 20 inches(or 24).....

Trash management

Trash management

Trash management

The rank of MRB shanks may not be very close together but the first rank of paralink openers aren't that far behind them.

I think if you live in a high crop residue area it might be challenging.

But boy oh boy would maintenance be less on shanks than discs

[JoeyJeremiah]

We have a few neighbours that have switched to shanks from MRB's and from the roadside it looks like trash wasn't a problem at all. I would consider our area a high residue area.

[farmaholic]

JJ. I think I highlighted the main issue. Are they intensive trash managers.

Badly lodged crop and long pea vines pasted to the ground would be challenging.

[farmaholic]

Neither !

Junk the bourgault paralink and buy a SeedHawk !

.....and some structural steel and a welder.

[flea beetle]

.....and some structural steel and a welder.

Are the hawks that bad for cracking? I have been snooping around for a new drill, and am kinda leaning toward the hawk. Run a Flexi-5000 at the moment, so admittedly don't know much about the independent drills.

[farmaholic]

I think SeedMaster has come further in frame improvements than SeedHawk. Bourgaults are tanks.

MRB's definitely have their issues. High maintenance and in a dry year fert too far from seed row. But I told(teased)wiseguy the bumper is back on now that it rained in Ghetto central and the crop found the fert midrow.

Bourgaults seed distribution system is archaic in my mind. Rough ride with two deadhead points, main distribution tower and secondary one. I like the ability to put any product coming out of any tank of the cart in either the seed row or MRB row. That way it is definitely versatile. I think metering is accurate also...we calibrate everything every year....never rely on old calibrations. We sometimes record them for reference.

Good luck with your decision. But like some guys have pointed out a good C-shank drill will grow as good a crop as anything. Some land topography is friendlier to c-shank drills than others. The old flexicoils had some frame flex and if the sections weren't too wide they did a pretty decent job. What I don't like about the Bourgault drill is there is no feathering it out if you're going through a wet spot or over a sharp knoll----its either in or out and as soon as you hit that electric over hydraulic switch to raise the drill....out it comes AND the main drive seed clutch disengages. (even though they're independent shank they still tend to go in deeper over sharp hilltops,.....would need an XTC, or what ever the new model that replaced it is called, PLX help prevent that)

That's my two cents

[biglentil]

6th year with the hawk total maintenance two seal kits for the shanks, 1 broken U bolt, no cracks on the frame. Went inline with the shanks much better trash clearance and field finish. Neighbour's Seed master literally broke in two this spring. Those damn Borgaults hate em, tough to beat their emergence, "resistance is futile".

[farmaholic]

No sarcasm intended....

Have you considered a Morris?

Anyone who has one can chime in. A couple of guys have them close by and they seem to do a good job with them but both are good operators to start with.

I think liquid fert is better if you want alot of fertilizer applied with a paired row or side band. I'm "done" trying to keep seed and high rates of granular fert properly separated ......placing fert marginally away from seed that is percariously supposed to placed on a "shelf" up and across from a heavy sterilizing fertilizer band.

There's more than one way to skin a cat. Do what works for you under your conditions.

[flea beetle]

No sarcasm intended....

Have you considered a Morris?

Anyone who has one can chime in. A couple of guys have them close by and they seem to do a good job with them but both are good operators to start with.

I think liquid fert is better if you want alot of fertilizer applied with a paired row or side band. I'm "done" trying to keep seed and high rates of granular fert properly separated ......placing fert marginally away from seed that is percariously supposed to placed on a "shelf" up and across from a heavy sterilizing fertilizer band.

There's more than one way to skin a cat. Do what works for you under your conditions.

Yes have heard a lot of good about the c2, but not so much about the quantum. Correct me if i'm wrong on that?

Scared off by the bankruptcy, and ensuing changes that may/will occur in the near future.

[farmaholic]

Truly there can be issues with any make of drill, they each have their reputations. Good and Bad.

[farmaholic]

Ya your 70 lbs of starter fert burns the seed and your crop doesn't see the midrow band fert until doomsday !

When I configured this drill I chose 4 inch round packers because I wanted to use a wider opener. We don't use a 3/4 inch tip, we use a 2 inch spread tip from Dutch. 2 inch spread is being "generous" but at least it's not all concentrated in a 3/4 inch band. Ten inch spacing.

You don't have to convincel me it takes a while for the crop to get to the midrow, I've been saying it for a while now. Worse in dry years!

Just because I have one doesn't mean I think it's the best....I know it is! Oh boy....

[farmaholic]

You figure out the details !

I did

[TOM4CWB]

Or just use a 1870jd and put fert in deep band with seed above 1.25"and to the side 1" in it's own seedrow delivery[Conservapak]. The newer NH openers do about the same placement with less hardware.

[SASKFARMER]

Yes, they are really easy to maintain but you need to harrow in fall and spring before seeding. If you don't grow much straw or have shorter canola then maybe they will work. Also, a disc doesn't dry the ground out as much as a shank. This year proved that.