Originally posted by TOM4CWB
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A good idea for very wet areas
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Back when we planted with a disc drill there was the odd time we would get behind so to speed thing up and beat a rain we would spread fertilizer and canola and spread it on the field . Then cultivated followed by harrow packer. The field still had to be dry enough that the soil had tilth. This was successful the few time we did it because rain right after.
Treated Canola seed was $1.00 lb at the time so it did not feel like that big of risk.
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I watched a guy at Wynyard on Sunday trying to seed, and they are much dryer than we are here. The desperation was obvious, the ruts were terrible. For the guys who don’t understand fully. Go find your wettest spot where you may get stuck, or where you would typically go around when seeding. Now extrapolate that spot onto your whole farm. Imagine if your whole farm was that wet. Maybe that picture will help a bit?Originally posted by seldomseen View PostBack when we planted with a disc drill there was the odd time we would get behind so to speed thing up and beat a rain we would spread fertilizer and canola and spread it on the field . Then cultivated followed by harrow packer. The field still had to be dry enough that the soil had tilth. This was successful the few time we did it because rain right after.
Treated Canola seed was $1.00 lb at the time so it did not feel like that big of risk.
One guy near me was out compacting his land I presume trying to “dry it out†with one of those glorified recreational disc machines. What a mess! One guy seeded a bit yesterday, but the conditions are horrible. Just because you can drag a seeder through a field does not mean it’s going to work. I think my land needs a week to become suitable.
Every landscape is different, organic matter and texture, topography, it matters so much on a year like this. It’s hard to speak for someone else’s land, whether it is suitable or not. But ruts, lumps, and slime tell the tale. The guys who need 25 days to seed vs. 10, all that information is telling.
It can’t rain Friday/Saturday here. It simply can’t. Or it’s finished before most started.
ETA some land was made to produce with a dry bias. Some is better when it’s a wet bias. My land needs dry to perform.Last edited by Sheepwheat; May 24, 2022, 07:51.
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I don’t who named them floaters?Originally posted by fjlip View PostExcept a 5710 will pack the H*LL out of it...in 2010 what I had seeded and then RAIN RAIN RAIN, made a 15 bu weedy stunted crop. Really no right answers, lots of experiments going on, rather have dirt over seed, floaters PACK the sh*t out of tracks when wet. Good luck guys, try whatever.
I always see them as sinkers.
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That is my sentiments exactly on our soil. Spring tillage of any kind is a disaster on my wet clay. Even driving across the field on a wet spring is a mistake, because of the compaction. A Disc being the worst possible option in the spring. I look at these vertical tillage machines and all I see is lots of weight lots of rotating components pushing down and disc blades. I'm sure they are the answer in places with the right kind of soil.Originally posted by Sheepwheat View Post
One guy near me was out compacting his land I presume trying to “dry it out†with one of those glorified recreational disc machines. What a mess! One guy seeded a bit yesterday, but the conditions are horrible. Just because you can drag a seeder through a field does not mean it’s going to work.Last edited by AlbertaFarmer5; May 24, 2022, 10:45.
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I hit every acre with a Salford 4100. It aerates the ground and makes a beautiful seedbed. Without it the water just sits there and stagnates, it’s amazing what a bit of air will do. The 2100 would probably be better for spring work but have to use what you have.
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