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Split application foliar fetilizer

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    Split application foliar fetilizer

    I am looking into to starting a program of foliar fertilizing. I have looked into a couple of ways and am not sure which is best. Does anyone have experience with making 46-0-0 into liquid and then foliar feeding it that way? Heard that when you make it into a liquid it has converted over so will not burn your crop.
    The other way is using granular like Power Rich. Not sure if Power Rich works or has enough N to really do anything or if the micros are worht the cost. Also would be nice to spray with the chemical but I don't want to cut back on rates so maybe will have to do seperate. But if we want to increase yeild, not just protein, we will have to spray by 3rd leaf so almost have to spray with chemical. As for canola, at what stage will you see the greatest yeild boost?
    Just wondering if anyone out there has experience with this that they could share before I go buy some tanks to mix 46-0-0 to convert to liquid.
    Lastly, I also heard that doing this foliar fert spraying is very hard on your sprayer. Just wondering if you have stainless everything on your sprayer,is this an issue?
    Thanks in advance for any insight.

    #2
    Don't waste your time turning 46 into liquid.
    There are at least a couple products out there.
    UAP has a product called N-pact (26-0-0) and Alpine has one called CRN (25-0-0 and .5boron).
    They are both non-corrosive and will be easier on your sprayer then the herbicides you already use.

    Comment


      #3
      I was told by a friend that 46-0-0 goes
      into suspension super easy. Fill your
      tank 2/3 with water, start agitation and
      start dumping urea in until it stops dissolving. Then top up the tank with
      water and you are done.
      He had a formula for how much urea/liter
      of water it should work out to.
      He claims to use this blend with all his
      own spraying (except burnoff I think) as
      it is a very cheap way of getting more N
      into the plant. I don't know for sure
      how he actually does it but I know he
      grows some fantastic crops.
      I hear a lot about foliar feeding, BEST,
      Omex, etc here but nobody seems to talk
      about the results? (Actually BTO hints
      towards BEST/BioAgronics type products
      when he rants about use whats in your
      soil not the chemicals you add.
      Unfortunately he doesn't expand on that
      but wanders off into a drunken Ukrainian
      type persona)

      Anybody try this stuff? Furrow I think
      you said you use dynagrow, Hopper did
      you do some trials this year?

      BTO anything constructive to add? I
      won't even spellcheck your post this
      time.

      Comment


        #4
        Where to begin. Don't bother mixing 46 in water its not a low buriet urea and burnage can occur, you can only
        safely foliar spray 4 lbs onto the leaf of the plant. Also with cereals before the 3 leaf stage won't really do anything but help with the recovery from the herbiced you sprayed on. The key stage in a cereal is the 4-5 leaf stage since thats when head development is occuring. At the 6 leaf stage you will be able to find a joint-knot in the stem above the ground, the head is above that. So the ideal time is the 4-5 leafs stage. And for that i would stream on 28-0-0. I have done alot of work with this. If you can't do liquid then put down a bit of ESN i'm starting to see good things with 15-20 lbs down the tube in the spring.

        If you know what your doing you can safe feed your entire crop by foliar i know a farmer who has been doing it for over 15 years.

        Here is an ideal situation. For a wheat crop that we figure we wanted 70 lbs of N and 15 of P. I would put down a combination of 11-52-0-0 and ESN so i got my 15 of P and 20 Lbs of N . I would go in with 40 lbs of 28-0-0 at the 4-5 leaf stage . and with my herbicied i would have a foliar spray with roughly 1 pound of N along with P,K,S and some micros. And that would give you your 70-15 .

        Your thinking holly three applications but i'm hitting the three most important stages of that wheat crops growth. My goal would be shorter straw, having only 2 tillers, increasing head size, increasing and topping up any micros for plant health and disease/insect control.

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks Ag-Guy, I will have to do some math
          about my sprayer tank and handling
          facilities (as well as sourcing 28-0-0)
          but it is worth looking into (as well as
          the stuff we discussed at Agri-trade).
          It seems here all we grow is straw after
          70 bushels of HRS, the crop looks like 100
          bu but its all straw.

          Comment


            #6
            Try the guys at penhold, it's been a
            long time but i think they had liquid
            tanks so it may be a source. And good
            seeing you at Agri-trade. After i
            thought we should have met up for a
            coffee. check out the western producer
            page 7.

            Also Ron if your worried about the
            28-0-0 being corrosive just spray things
            down with WD-40 first. When you apply
            high amounts of N down in the spring
            cereal crops usually tiller like crazy
            and grow tall, starving result in a
            perfect 2 tillers and the split
            application will help in reducing straw
            length and will help in lodging to. You
            can also apply 28-0-0 in the heat of the
            day to and actually its better. The one
            thing you do need is a rain 7-10 days
            later to drive it in the ground,
            agrotain can help extend that. In 28-0-0
            there is 3 lbs of N per gallon.

            Happy New Year and if you have any
            questions about this let me know.

            Comment


              #7
              We use dynagrow on all our peas, have done so for 6-7 years. We have tried it in canola and wht with varied results - but realized a glitch. we have not worried about the Ph of our spray water and it effects. I will do as they say this year. Ph between 5-6 with ph adjuster.
              As for 'best', we seen some positive reults in root developement and plant growth. Yield was slightly better. We tried as a folliar as well, no sig difference - but not realy designed as a folliar type nutrient. One thing that realy impressed me we the change in the soil - slightly more mellow (we have heavy clay soil)and darker color after only 4 weeks of the soil aplication - all 4 feilds.
              We split 4 half sections with best and will continue to do so for 2-3 years and see what we see.
              I am still looking for a way to boost hrsw protien. We have tried dynagrow, GRX, 21-0-0-24, 28-0-0, best, and a few others. still 21-0-0-24 was most consistant but the biggest pain in the ass to apply. I want something easy to handle that I can throw in with the herbicide that can give me 1.5-2% protien gain - any thoughts - anyone???
              Our top dressing hrsw this year turned out bigger yields but very little protien - just the year??
              -30 lbs 28-0-0 with dribble bar - 78 bus/ac 11.5%pro
              - dynagrow - 72 bus/ac 11.2% pro
              - best - 70 bus/ac 11.3% pro
              check (no top dress) 68 bus/ac 10.5% pro
              We did see positive results but I would like not to have so much straw.
              On a 'noraml' year here with 45-50 bus hrsw we have got a little more protien jump with dynagrow. We will see what 2011 does.

              Comment


                #8
                Furrow take the ph down to about 4.5 to 5 . 6 is still a bit high. If you want to gain protein what you need to do is go in with a foliar at the soft dough stage in cereals. By appyling around 2 pounds you should see a 1 point increase.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Furrow give me an email i think i know were to get some straight N for foliar.

                  darren.soil@gmail.com

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Ag-Guy I taught you's ran off whinin' & snivelin' over da BEST incident and were never goin' to return??? What happened??? Dese guys here needie dat much help eh??? I tink soooooo.........

                    How's kin all you's call yerseleves Self Proclaimed Genies??? Take da $10-$20 plus per acre cost and buy actual nutrients dat you need and put dem in da soil. Foolie Fertilizers are not magic potions dat are gonna give yous top yields skippin on actual. Top yields from come from Fertility in da soil, not Foolie Fertilizers plant applied...

                    You's keep wastin' yer moneys on Foolie Fertilizers. Da less moneys my competition has da better.....

                    I knows exactly what to use & it ain't BEST or any of dis hokiss pokiss stuff. Dat crap only calls fer a few lbs per acre. Folks you's need to understand you need hundreds of lbs per acre of said product (not BEST), if'n you's wanna change da soil. Unfortunately I's kin only hint at what it is. I need dis to git da upper hand on all you's and da Hutts, mainly Hutts. Da only reason I helpin' a bit cause I don't want da soil destroyed by Self Proclaimed Genies..........

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Thanks for ther fert lesson bto ??? Skippin on actual - doudt it, never once mentioned how much actual we put on in the first place. Have you ever had a drought, let alone three years in a row? Changes ones perspective on how much 'actual' fert goes down before or at seeding. Just looking to folliar feed the crop as conditions warant, much like vvalk.
                      Da fert comps must luv ur a$$, do u git a jar of vasalines wit all dat fert u stik in da dirt?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Isn't the cereal head aready made by the 4 to 5 leaf?
                        Won't you burn the hell out of the crop with 40 lbs of 28-0-0?
                        The easiest would be granular, like power rich, but not sure how effective that stuff is. Does anyone have any experience with it?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Yep the head is generaly formed - just looking for a protien boost. No crop burn, we used a dribble bar.
                          We used powerrich for 2 years. Worked well, freight was an issue for us up here and we went to liquid fert.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            No burn if you use stream bars or proper nozzles made for liquid N. Also when its hot out the liquid bounce right off the leaf. The head is being developed at the 4-5 leaf stage and thats when to hit it for the best result. And again for a point of protien you need to go at soft dough stage.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Furrow,
                              The easiest and most consisten way I've seen to bump protein without growing a pile more straw and creating a bunch more work, is ESN. 40lbs/ac should get you 1-2% more protein. It is 12cent more than urea ($4.80/ac) but it works.

                              Comment

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