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Pole shed versus stick frame on footings

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    Pole shed versus stick frame on footings

    I need a new machine shed and am looking at all the ads in the Western Producer and see good deals on pole sheds and stick frame 2x6 construction sheds. The 2x6 buildings cost almost 50% more than the pole building because of the concrete footing required. What are the pros and cons of each?

    The one particular package from Zaks, has a pole shed with 4x6 pwf posts 8 feet apart and then is strapped with 2x6 every 2 feet and has roof trusses every 4 feet on center and is strapped with 2x4 every 2 feet on the roof. Covered with 29 guage tin. Is this strong enough? A 4x6 every 8 feet sounds a little weak?

    How do the tent style buildings stand up for machine storage? Are the tarps lasting long enough and are cheap enough to replace that this is the superior option as compared to a pole building or a stick frame construction.

    Thanks for all help

    #2
    If you want to stay away from maintenance 10 or 15 years down the road, stay away from pole barn designs.
    That's what I'm facing right now!

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      #3
      I built a pole shed in 1991 and from my point of view it is as good now as when I built it. Same specs as you mentioned. Easy to build, no cement required, I'll build another one.

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        #4
        The buildings I own are not build by my self. It seems like they used a spruce as a pole. The poles are all rotted away at the ground surface.
        What is the trick to keep the poles from rotting? To me it's like fence-posts they last only so long.

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          #5
          We built a pole frame building in 1966. It was origionaly used just for storage but over time we insulated and heated it. The poles were pressure treated, and as far as I know are still intact. The problem is though, the whole building has settled into the ground a good 5" or more. This might have been prevented by setting the poles in concrete in larger holes or on deeeper piles perhaps. Just something to think about.

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            #6
            Thanks for the replies.

            The cheaper upfront cost of the pole buildings has caught my attention, and it is great to hear everyones different views.

            I assume that drainage is of utmost importance to help keep the post from rotting.

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              #7
              I built a stick framed building with a 2 foot concrete pony wall two years ago and it costs me exactly the same as what a pole shed would have at the time. I would check around, my guess is you could still find a similar deal. How do you keep mice out of a pole shed? Stick frames are way easier to insulate and finish inside. I would definitely go with a stick frame if you can.

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                #8
                We have a pole freestall barn built in 73 that's still fine but the quality of pressure-treated posts has dropped badly since then. The last two loads we bought, we broke posts taking them off the truck (by hand!)

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                  #9
                  If you are going to go pole and decide to put concrete down later I have told that one should place stainless steel plates around the poles to allow the water to condesate out of the cement. Watch out for treated material. Most plants treat to dry and as such do not get any amount of penetration. Most will tell you that they treat to .040 of an inch. Insist on .075 and documentation to back it. Also check on the chemical that was used in the treating process.

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                    #10
                    I'm considering building styles as well. I would like to build the frame first and then insulate and heat as money permits. Check into the cost of laminated poles (3 2x6's spiked together.) This gives you more treatment in the wood that is below ground level. Start with a 16' between 2 10's to go in the hole and you can switch to untreated lumber as you go up. You can build as high as you need for a fraction of the cost. Price out a 26' 6x6 treated pole lately? I think that a pole frame will work fine if you get the posts down below the frost, set them on washed rock and then cement them in. I am wondering if putting a treated plank all around the outside base of the poles will serve as a form for a concrete floor in the future. 4' centers for rafters is common, and I have noticed that the rafter price goes up significantly once you go past 50' wide. Any thoughts on the laminated post idea? I wonder about strength. Thanks

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                      #11
                      I built a pole shed in 1981 40x 60 16' high two years later we poured a cement floor with in floor heating and insullated and drywalled . the building has been perfect. in 92 I built a 36 x 96 x 18 three sided basterd roof building with 14' bays ( two foot cement plug under these posts with 2' screen boards back and front nailed on before backfilling.) .I was told not to cement in treated posts as the cement acts as a cup around the post and does not let them breath .
                      We have had 4' of hard packed snow on these roofs before we cleaned them we have not yet had a problem.
                      In 2001 I built a 54x 96 x 21' pole shed for grasseed storage . we are hoping to extend to 140' this year and use it for grains . I built it up about 3' above grade have a dirt floor that we spent a lot of time get perfect. I also have aeration tubes on the ground. We have 8'of linner on the inside that we fill right to the top with grasseed

                      One inportant thing to remember is when you are installing your posts made sure the screen board is treated and even if you must put a second row, make sure it is on solid ground not fill. If it is on fill and the fill settles your building could sink . the same goes for cement beams or floors it must be poured onto solid ground.
                      I put my poles in after stripping the ground before back filling and building my lifted pad. My poles are 26' and are laminated 2x6 only the end that is in the ground has treated lumber. My poles are longer than they needed to be because I was building in the winter and was not able to do a good job backfilling with frozen dirt so I made sure my posts were about 2.5' in untouched dirt with the first row of sreen board nailed on sitting on hard clay. I then back filled about 3' up the pole with lumpy dirt and finished leveling the next spring when the building was done.
                      I really like the pole sheds .
                      My neibour has a shed on pilings on a grade beam and one end of his shed has lifted about 7" out of the ground , He had a bit of a dranage problem he did not relize till it was too late.
                      Good luck

                      Gary
                      Elkridge Farms
                      erfarms@telusplanet.net

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